Love Quebec City... And Get out of Town

As I wound my second dollop of snow cooled taffy onto the little Popsicle-like stick, the words from the song Sugar Shack kept running through my mind.

You can understand why I've got to get back
To that sugar shack, whoa baby, to that sugar shack,

Hot maple syrup is poured on snow to be rolled up onto Popsicle like sticks for a tasty treat

When Jimmy Gilmer and the Fireballs recorded this song many years ago I doubt they were thinking of the taste of fresh, hot maple syrup poured onto snow.

But this, my first experience at a real sugar shack on the Isle d'Orleans, a few miles from Quebec City, left an indelible impression.

Even if I had heard about snow cooled taffy, I doubt whether I would have appreciated its meaning or anticipated its taste. Fresh, sweet, and flavourful! Quintessentially Quebec, it was a unique experience.

Early in spring the trees are tapped and raw syrup is collected in pails

"This celebration of the maple harvest is a Quebec tradition," explains our host at the Relais Des Pins Cabane a Sucre; nowhere more so than on this tiny island only 20 minutes from Quebec City.

Long before there was a Province of Quebec, the aboriginal peoples were "sugaring off" the maples. Today it is a major regional industry. And even though the tapping of the trees to capture the sap flow is done early in spring, the sugar shack experience has been expertly packaged for visiting tourists throughout the summer peak season.

It is perhaps no wonder that visitors to Quebec City don't often venture out beyond the confines of the city limits to search out experiences akin to the Sugar Shack.

With its historic section designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its reputation for exceptional restaurants, and its simple yet urban charm, it consistently rates high amongst the best in the world in tourist reviews.

But after two days of walking up and down the hills of Old Quebec, my wife suggested we rent a car and see what lay beyond. With a general idea we might end up on Isle d'Orleans we made our way out of the city on Highway 40 towards this vaguely defined destination.

As we were approaching the bridge that would take us across the St. Lawrence River to the island, my wife startled me with her exuberant "Look at that!"

The Montmorency Falls are 30 metres higher than Niagara Falls.

A quick U turn took us to the base of Montmorency Falls. Waterfalls everywhere tend to be mesmerizing, this one more than others because of its surprising height statistic. Raging waters, pouring over a cliff almost 30 metres higher than Niagara Falls, created a crescendo of sound and vapor.

While not as wide as Niagara Falls, at a height of 83 metres, we were impressed enough to spend quite some time sitting at one of the Parc de la Chue-Montmorency picnic tables, transfixed by the power and majesty of this roaring monster.

Later, as we turned on to the road that would take us around the tiny Isle d'Orleans we could immediately sense we had been transported back in time.

Irrigated by the rich waters of the St. Lawrence River, historically this was farm and fish country. Not much has changed.

The oldest house on the island goes back to 1734, and while it has become more modern in many ways, its six small villages almost blend into the farm homes and buildings leading in and out of them.

We could have driven the entire 70 kilometre road around the island fairly quickly, appreciating the spirit of a real Quebec homestead countryside by doing so. We would still have felt completely satisfied with the journey. But craft shops, vegetable and fruit stands, cheese factories, old churches, a winery and bakery, plus the many maple syrup product stores that beckoned us to drop in every few kilometers made it nearly a day-long trip.

For lunch we dined on the outdoor terrace of the Café Bistro de la Plaget.

Situated on the banks of the St. Lawrence River, on cruise ship days you can watch the ships passing by to and from Quebec City.

Relaxing in the sunshine, sipping a beverage, and slurping a hot bowl of French pea soup we could visualize the voyageurs in their canoes in days past traversing the river that would initiate the foundations of a great French society.

But nowhere are the beginnings of Canadian history more pronounced than back in Quebec City itself.

Four hundred and three years ago the French explorer Samuel do Champlain founded Kebec, "the place where the river narrows", as a trading post.

Evidence of French, English, and even American battles there can be readily found today. As the original trading post grew into a secure bastion, it became the recognized capital of Lower Canada.

The Saint Pierre Church, the oldest on Isle d'Orleans, was erected in 1719.

Religion, while not the pervasive influence it once was, still represents a strong foundation for Quebec life today. As a aresult of the arrivals of the Recollets, Jesuits, Ursulines, and Augustines during the formative days of the colony in the early 1600's, majestic churches and cathedrals dot the downtown and side streets of Quebec City.

The Notre-Dame-de-Quebec Basilica Cathedral is one of the most impressive in the world.

Recognized as one of most impressive cathedrals in the new world, the Notre-Dame-de-Quebec Basilica-Cathedral contains significant artworks depicting the past. An impressive audio visual presentation instills an emotional perspective of the structure and the people who live and worship there.

The narrow streets of old Quebec. Take the Funicular (background) to save the strenuous climb to and from Old Quebec

Using the cathedral and the iconic Chateau Frontenac hotel nearby as anchor points, each day we would alternately walk in each direction marveling at discoveries of the original voyageurs. Most enjoyable was the time we spent walking through the narrow streets of the old city.

On the hills that slope towards the St Lawrence sit the historic buildings of Old Quebec, and the beginnings of Canada. The buildings have been preserved, and inside these monuments to history are the finest shops, hotels, and restaurants in the land. And the owners of these establishments are most often close at hand.

Brian Aube, Director General of the Quebec City Hotel Association underscores this when he states, "We are proud of the fact the majority of the unique properties in the city are privately held and locally owned.

Downtown Quebec City is known for its unique shopping options in historic buildings.

Quebec City could easily be designated the culinary capital of Canada. While you can frequently find traditional French Canadian cuisine on the menus, today's chefs create fusions of tastes from around the world. There are hundreds of quality restaurants for tourists to choose from, many of them in the homes of pioneer families.

So often the major impressions of a city relate to the way you are treated by the people you interact with on the street. Any fear we had that we might not be easily served in English, or be addressed courteously, was quickly erased. People were friendly at every turn.

Aube commented on why, "We do take the time to talk with visitors. Many of us come from big families. And we treat visitors like we are happy to have them come over to our place." He added "Like we were having them home for dinner. It's just the way we are."

Our stay was only for a brief four days. My wife and I both fell in love with the city and hang on to special memories of our day on the road.

Looking back on that visit is why I still often catch myself repeating, I've got to get back. I've GOT to go back!

Where to Stay in Quebec City

There is no doubt that the Chateau Frontenac, but for price, would be the first choice of most. History, luxury, and location make it the ideal place to stay.

In old Quebec City, theAuberge Saint Antoine, with its award winning restaurant, will almost guarantee a memorable experience. Carved into an archeological treasure with the artifacts put on display, the lobby is a museum until itself. If you don't stay there at least stop in for lunch or dinner.

The Clarendon Hotel is one of the most impressive historic hotels in Quebec City. It is also known as the home of Jazz with live music every weekend.

If you check the reviews on the Hotel Germain-Dominion you will note that it seems to be given top marks by just about everyone who stays there.

Where to Eat in Quebec City

Choosing from dozens of exceptional restaurants is not easy, but here are the ones we liked best.

Le Continental, just a few steps from the Chateau Frontenac bills itself as a Italian French restaurant. Its location seems to allow it to charge fairly high prices, but be assured we still felt we got full value for the money we spent.

Restaurant Le Saint-Amour in old Quebec offers a 12,000 bottle wine cellar that is a tourist destination unto itself for guests of the evening. It was recognized recently as restaurant of the year by Guide Debeur

There are a number of moderately priced street side patio cafes and plenty of breakfast places, both chain and local, which can be easily found in a short walk from most downtown hotels.

What to Do in Quebec City

Few Canadians are likely to pass up a visit to The Battlefields Park where General Wolfe's army defeated that of General Montcalm in 1759.

The Museum of Civilizations has become ever more popular with its exhibits that take you from Quebec to the rest of Canada and around the world.

Be sure you have a good pair of shoes and walk, walk walk. Quebec is a city where around any next corner you will find something unexpected and interesting.

Finally enjoy Quebec but be sure to get out of town to the countryside, most particularly to the Isle d'Orleans.