James J. Hill, a Canadian born in southern Ontario, would build the most expensive house in Minnesota and be recognized as the man most credited with opening the Northwest to American settlement. In 1878 he bought a near bankrupt St. Paul and Pacific Railroad with a vision to push the line north to Canada first, and then extend the new railroad company he called the Great Northern Railway, across the Rocky Mountains all the way to the Pacific Ocean.

His success allowed him to create one of the first near million dollar mansions in America. It still stands as a testament to American hard work, dedication, and entrepreneurial spirit. Today it, along with the avenue it sits on, stands as a major tourist attraction for St. Paul and the Twin Cities area. Summit Avenue is littered with symbols of American success, the ultimate dream mansion. It is as though each new builder tried to outdo the one before in constructing the most majestic examples of Victorian architecture, displayed like masterpieces on both sides of summit Avenue, and kept intact by subsequent residents and city fathers. But no one would match the epitome of success created by James Hill.

Wandering through the home today one is struck by the overpowering wealth that existed that far back. Carved oak and mahogany woodwork highlight parts of the 36,000 square feet, spread over five floors. It certainly should not have been hard to find one of the 13 bathrooms, or warm up winter around any of the 22 fireplaces. The 100 foot long skylit art gallery is in itself reason why thousands make the James J. Hill House a must see stop every year.

St. Paul itself often does not get the recognition it deserves compared to its twin city Minneapolis. But this city is its own attraction, with exceptional sightseeing opportunities and an exceptional range of dining and entertainment options to choose from. The Xcell Energy Centre is home to the Minnesota Wild, and like our own MTS Centre, hosts most of the big live acts that make their way through the United States and Canada. The hit creative extravaganza, Walking with Dinosaurs, will be there in June, Rush explodes on stage in May, while George Michael plays in July. Then they all make way for perhaps the biggest hit of the year, the Republican National Convention in September.

While there are a number of good restaurants gathered around the Xcell Energy Centre, the entire surrounding region really does offer dining to suit every price and taste. We had fun choosing between the more formal ambiance of I Nonni Italian restaurant in nearby Lilydale and the casual atmosphere of the connected pasta bar at Buon Giorno.

Being unable to decide we sampled both. After delicious appetizers and wine at I Nonni, we went next door, where the relaxed informality of the servers at the huge pasta and deli bar seemed to ignite spontaneous laughter from most of the tables patrons were seated at. No pretensions were allowed here, as customers sparred with the people behind the food counters, over portions and additions to the plate. No one left hungry with huge portions served at a very fair price. When we can finally decide we want to go back and visit both again, separately.

With food and entertainment on our minds we would seek out more places to eat or be amused.

We would find that amusement at a stage show every Manitoban who has ever worked in the ladies auxiliary of a local church should see. Playing at the Plymouth Playhouse in the Best Western Hotel in the suburb of Plymouth, Church Basement Ladies-A Second Helping parodies characters we all can identify with as they go about their commitments to their parish. Its underlying theme of a caring community of people working together tug at the heartstrings as the characters share their stories of love and heartbreak with each other.

The gossip, the ultimate mother, the new bride, and a minister struggling with issues of a changing time, all woven into a cleaver musical format, make you leave the theatre wishing for yet one more helping.

At the Pittsburgh Blue Steakhouse one helping is definitely all you will be able to handle. Why is it called Pittsburgh Blue? It’s because that’s the way steelworkers ate their steak, charred black on the outside, cold and raw on the inside with a piece of beef cut big enough for someone who has spent a long hard shift at work.

There are only a few of us left who can eat steak that rare, so Pittsburgh Blue gives you the choice, and not just in steak. How about Oysters Rockefeller or seared Ahi Tuna Tartare? Want your meal somewhat more cooked and not quite so copious? How about coconut shrimp on a petite filet done to your standards, or corn crusted sea bass?

It seemed that everywhere we dined during this Twin Cities jaunt, both quality and service exceeded our expectations. The biggest surprise was perhaps from the meals we ate at the Mall of America.

Shopping centres don’t always leave one with perceptions that staying on site to dine is worth either the time or expenditure. But at both places we dined in there, we were very satisfied. Ruby Tuesday’s was casual but with one of the best soup and salad bars we had experienced in a very long time.

The piece de resistance that really amazed us however, was the menu and wine selection at the Tucci Benucch restaurant. Veal Marsala, Pesto Crusted Salmon, Chicken Saltimbocca, and Gnocchi Spinach served with wine from a selection of over 50 red and white choices. Memorable dining experiences are usually reserved for the stand alone, destination located restaurants, but this could easily match most of those on any day.

It seemed that as we drove to and from our Embassy Suites Hotel where we stayed in St. Paul we would often pass near Summit Avenue and the James J. Hill House. Even though he lived and made his fortune in St. Paul, as a Canadian it was with a certain sense of pride that we walked in the same footsteps he may have treaded over a century ago. He could envision a railroad, but I doubt he could have seen restaurants and entertainment centres through his looking glass that would be built upon his footsteps. But the foundations he created allowed for those that followed to add to his dream in an era where tourism would become an economic driving force. And that as the railroad era passed new dreams and visions would keep his beloved St. Paul vibrant and growing.

If You Go:

Where to Stay: The Embassy Suites in St. Paul gives you easy access to most sights, and freeways connect easily to Minneapolis and the other suburbs. Both the Marriott Courtyard and adjacent Holiday Inn in Maple Grove are both quite new and well appointed.

Where to Eat: Pittsburgh Blue specializes in terrific thick steaks in Maple Grove, while nearby Biaggi’s Ristorante Italiano offers an excellent selection of traditional Italian choices. In St. Paul, just a short walk from the X-Cell centre, at Forepaugh’s on Exchange St., you can keep your eye out for the ghost of the builder of this Historic 1870’s Victorian mansion as you enjoy quiet dining in exceptional surroundings. The casual atmosphere and pasta bar at Buon Giorno at 918 Sibley Memorial Highway in Lilydale, where they cook your order in front of you, made for a fun evening. Next door the I Nonni restaurant offers more formal dining.

What to Do: St. Paul offers a myriad of choices, but do take in historic James J. Hill House. Hill, who was born in Canada, went on to become one of the richest men in America before he died in 1916 in the mansion he built on Summit Avenue. The Cathedral of St. Paul is just down the street. Church Basement Ladies plays until the end of July. Don’t miss it if you go there before summer’s end.

Getting There: For the most part the highways are exceptional with speed limits beyond the border usually between 70 and 75 mph. (approximate 110-120 kilometers per hour). Take Highway 75 to the border. It turns into I-29, then connect to I-94 at Fargo which takes you all the way to the outskirts of the Twin Cities.